In season: Sprouting cauliflower and romanesco have a flair for the dramatic

By Hal B. Klein / Pittsburgh Post-Gazette

Sprouting cauliflower makes a grand entrance when it returns to farm stands in the autumn. While typical cauliflower presents itself as a compact bunch, these cool-weather vegetables fan out with a dramatic display of slender stalks and loose florets as if putting on a show.

I love the flair of sprouting cauliflower. There’s a boldness in the way it grows, as if it knows it’s meant to be seen. The sweet variety with purple florets commands attention, almost daring you not to admire it. The creamy off-white cultivar hints at its nutty, almost woodsy flavor, standing out like a ghost among the rest of the October bounty.

Also in season is romanesco, the mathematician's cauliflower. Typically lime-green but sometimes in shades of purple, its bunched florets spike outward, following the golden ratio of fractals. They look a bit like evergreen trees from a fantastical planet; arrange them with a few sprouting cauliflower stalks for a funky, surreal crudité platter.

Cauliflower is a brassica, part of the same botanical family as sturdy and nutritious mustard greens, Brussels sprouts, cabbage and kale. Like its cousin broccoli, the tender florets are the star, but don’t discard the stalks. Peel off the tough outer layer and cook them as you would asparagus. With sprouting cauliflower, its outstretched “legs” are ready to throw straight into the fire.

All types of cauliflower char beautifully under high heat, their vibrant colors deepening as the edges crisp. The tender stems absorb flavors, and the florets add texture and visual flair to any dish. Cauliflower holds its own in stir-fries, plates of pasta and on the grill.

A word of caution: Although many vegetables brighten when steamed or quickly boiled, purple sprouting cauliflower loses its regal hue’s saturation.

Zippy sprouting cauliflower

A quick stir-fry makes for the zippy weeknight side dish. The high heat brings out the natural flavors and bright colors of sprouting cauliflower and a finishing splash of fresh lemon juice adds a final pop of brightness.

½ pound sprouting cauliflower (Romanesco and standard-issue cauliflower work just fine, too)

1 tablespoon vegetable oil

1 shallot, diced

2 cloves of garlic, diced

1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice

Cut the cauliflower into small pieces

Heat oil in a wok or frying pan until shimmering.

Add cauliflower, shallots and garlic.

Cook for 2 minutes or until cauliflower is tender-crisp.

Finish with lemon juice.