6 winter squash recipes to ease into autumn
By Gretchen McKay / Pittsburgh Post-Gazette
Fall can feel like a lackluster time of year for home cooks. We have to say goodbye to all the sweet and colorful fruits and vegetables that make summer so awesome.
With locally grown tomatoes, corn, stone fruits, fresh salad greens and juicy red and blue berries in our rearview mirror, it can be hard to engage our taste buds or get creative in the kitchen. Especially when it starts to get dark so early and the weather demands that, yes, it’s time to turn on the furnace. (Sigh.)
We understand. It’s tough to change gears, especially when it seems fall food not only takes longer to cook than summer food, but is literally harder.
Instead of soft butter lettuces and tender summer squashes from local farms, our choices now include crunchy cabbages and root vegetables like carrots and turnips. Desserts are built around crisp apples and sweet potatoes instead of succulent strawberries and juicy peaches.
Yet autumn can deliver some pretty great ingredients for whipping up something tasty, too, especially if you start with some of the most colorful produce available this time of year: thick-skinned winter squashes.
Now is when these vined, botanical fruits are ripe for picking in several shapes, hues and sizes. Think squat, dark green acorn squash; round, bright orange sugar pumpkins; cream-colored butternut squash; green-and-orange delicata squash; and Blue Hubbard, a heirloom known for its size, blue-gray color and extremely hard, bumpy skin.
With Halloween approaching, pumpkin immediately comes to mind. But you’re probably not going to want to eat the big carving pumpkins piled up outside your local grocery store. Grown for size, most will taste bland with a stringy texture.
Instead, you’ll want to head indoors to the produce section to choose among smaller (and tastier) sugar and Cinderella pumpkins and winter squashes.
Technically, while all pumpkins are a type of winter squash, not all winter squashes are pumpkins (though the terms are often used interchangeably). All belong to the same genetic family, cucurbit, a sprawling plant family consisting of about 965 species in 101 genera.
Also winter squash is actually a misnomer; most of the fruit is actually grown during summer and then stored all winter.
Why cook and eat winter squashes? Along with being high in fiber and low in calories (most cooked squashes have between 45 and 90 calories per cup), they contain antioxidants that can promote cell growth and may reduce the risk of cancer.
They’re also flush with vitamin C, iron, beta-carotene and folate — all important for the immune system during flu and cold season — and their low glycemic index can help regulate blood sugar.
Their seeds, meanwhile, are a good source of protein and fun to eat.
When choosing, look for fruit that feels heavy for its size and makes a hollow sound when you tap it. Also, the skin should look dull instead of glossy (that means it’s not ripe).
While canned pumpkin is easy to find in most grocery stores, it’s also pretty easy to make pumpkin puree at home if you want to get fancy.
Just cut the fruit in half, scoop out the seeds, brush it with oil and roast in a 350-degree oven until the skin is soft, 50-60 minutes, depending on size. Cool and scoop out the cooked flesh with a spoon, then use an immersion blender or a mixer to blend the roasted pumpkin into puree.
Here’s six recipes for winter squash and pumpkin you’ll want to try out, including one for a pumpkin spice-flavored Prosecco cocktail for happy hour.
Panang-Style Pumpkin Curry
PG tested
Pumpkin curry is a much-loved offering on Thai menus. It’s easy enough to make at home and a great way to use up all those veggies in your refrigerator crisper. Any yellow flesh pumpkin or winter squash will do — I used chunks of sweet sugar pumpkin.
You can find red and green Thai curry pastes in most larger grocery stores in the Asian aisle. They can be used pretty much interchangeably, but green is generally a bit milder than red.
2 tablespoons olive oil, divided
1 medium onion, chopped
2 medium carrots, chopped
3 cloves garlic
2 tablespoons freshly grated ginger
1 tablespoon ground turmeric
1 red bell pepper, sliced
2½ cups cubed kabocha squash or pie pumpkin
8 ounces green beans, trimmed and cut into 2-inch pieces
1 red chili pepper, sliced, optional
2 or 3 tablespoons Thai red or green curry paste, or more to taste
1 (13.5-ounce) can full-fat coconut milk
1 cup water
2 tablespoons lime juice
¼ cup chopped cilantro
Salt and pepper
Cooked rice for serving
Heat 1 tablespoon of olive oil in a large pot or Dutch oven over medium heat. Add onion and carrots and cook until softened, about 5 minutes. Add garlic, ginger and turmeric and sauté for 30 seconds.
Add bell pepper, pumpkin, green beans and chili pepper, if using, and sauté for 1 minute longer.
Add red curry paste, coconut milk and water, and stir well to combine. Bring to a boil, then reduce heat to medium-low and simmer until the pumpkin is tender and the sauce has thickened, about 20-25 minutes.
Remove from heat and stir in lime juice, cilantro, salt and pepper to taste. Serve warm over steamed rice.
Serves 6.
— Gretchen McKay, Post-Gazette
Pumpkin Ricotta Gnocchi with Pumpkin Sauce
PG tested
This recipe for gnocchi, or “Pinocchio,” as my 4-year-old granddaughter, Greta, calls it, is fun to make as a family activity. You can either toss the cooked dumplings in brown butter with a little sage, or for a more filling meal, smother them in a creamy pumpkin sauce.
For gnocchi
1½ pounds fresh whole-milk ricotta
1 cup canned pumpkin
2 eggs
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oi
½ cup grated Parmesan cheese, plus more for serving
¼ teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg
4 cups all-purpose flour, sifted, plus more for rolling
For pumpkin sauce
1 tablespoon butter
1 clove garlic, minced
1 15-ounce can canned pumpkin
1 cup chicken stock or broth
1 cup light cream
Pinch cayenne pepper or red pepper flakes
¼ cup grated Parmesan
Salt and pepper, to taste
Make gnocchi: In large bowl, stir together ricotta, eggs and oil until thoroughly combined. Stir in Parmesan and sprinkle with nutmeg. Add flour a little at a time and stir thoroughly until dough comes together.
Dump dough onto a generously floured surface and use your hands to bring it together into a smooth ball. Add more flour as needed until dough is smooth and no longer sticks to your hands.
Cut off small slices of dough and roll into ropes that’s are as thick as your thumb. Cut into 1-inch pieces, then roll on a gnocchi board or the back of a fork dipped in flour to make imprints that will help hold the sauce.
Transfer gnocchi pieces to a lightly floured or nonstick baking sheet so they don’t stick together, and place sheet in freezer while making the rest of the gnocchi.
If you plan to save for future use, let them freeze completely on the baking sheet before storing them in a freezer-friendly zipper plastic bag to prevent them from sticking together. Freeze for up to 8 weeks.
Prepare sauce: In large, wide saucepan, melt butter over medium heat, then add garlic and cook until fragrant, about 1 minute.
Stir in pumpkin puree, chicken stock and cayenne pepper. Let the sauce simmer over medium-low heat for about 10 minutes, then add cream. Stir to combine and season to taste with salt and pepper. Keep warm while you cook the gnocchi.
Cook gnocchi: Bring a large stockpot of salted water to a boil. Add half of the gnocchi (or less, depending on how many you’re serving) to boiling water and gently stir once with a wooden spoon to create movement and keep them from sticking to the bottom of the pan. As gnocchi rise to the top, about 5 minutes later, scoop them out with a slotted spoon, shaking off excess water, and place in sauce.
Toss to combine, and serve with grated Parmesan.
Serves 4-6.
— Gretchen McKay, Post-Gazette
Roasted Delicata Squash Tacos
PG tested
Warm flour tortillas are filled with half-moons of roasted delicata squash, shiitake mushroom and kale for a simple weeknight meal. No worries about peeling the squash — its delicate, thin skin is completely edible.
For tacos
2 small delicata squash
1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for drizzling
½ small yellow onion, sliced
1 cup shiitake mushrooms, stemmed and sliced (about 6)
1 teaspoon apple cider vinegar
3 or 4 kale leaves, with stems, thinly sliced
6 flour or corn tortillas, warmed
Crumbled queso fresco, for serving
1 lime, sliced into wedges, for serving
For sauce
½ cup sour cream
1 garlic clove, finely minced
Juice 1 lime
Pinch or two of chili powder
Salt and black pepper, to taste
Preheat oven to 425 degrees and line a baking sheet with parchment paper. Slice squash in half lengthwise, scoop out seeds and slice into ½-inch segments.
Toss squash slices with a drizzle of olive oil and pinches of salt and pepper and roast until tender and golden brown, about 30 minutes.
Heat 1 tablespoon of olive oil in a medium skillet over medium heat. Add onion slices and a pinch of salt and pepper and cook until soft and browned, 5-8 minutes, stirring occasionally.
Add mushrooms, and cook until soft and browned, about 5 more minutes, stirring occasionally. Add apple cider vinegar, stir, reduce heat and cook until mushrooms are very soft. Stir in kale and cook until it wilts, about 1 more minute. Season with salt and pepper to taste.
Make sauce: Combine sour cream, garlic, lime juice and chili powder in small bowl. Season to taste with salt and pepper.
Assemble tacos with the onion/mushroom/kale mixture and roasted squash. Top with crumbled queso fresco and a drizzle of sauce, and serve with lime slices.
— adapted from Loveandlemons.com
Kabocha Quiche
PG tested
Kabocha squash has a fairly thick skin, so this vegetarian entree requires a bit of time in the oven. That said, it has a beautiful presentation and when fully cooked, slices quite easily. The original recipe recommends Gruyere cheese, but I substituted Swiss.
It makes a little more filling than you’ll need to fill the squash; I cooked it separately in a souffle dish as a chef’s treat.
1 kabocha squash, about 3 pounds
3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, divided
½ small eggplant, cut into ¼-inch dice
½ small zucchini, cut into ¼-inch dice
1 red bell pepper, seeded and cut into ¼-inch dice
1 small onion, cut into ¼-inch dice
1 garlic clove, minced
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
3 large eggs
1 cup light cream
½ cup shredded Swiss cheese
½ teaspoon chopped thyme
Position a rack in the center of the oven and preheat to 350 degrees.
Cut squash in half across its equator and scoop out seeds. (This takes some effort and a sharp knife; it helps to stick the knife in the middle and work your way around the outside.)
Carefully cut a very small piece off the rounded bottom of each squash half so it can stand up without wobbling. Stand halves on a baking sheet and brush flesh with 1 tablespoon oil.
Bake until squash is just tender enough to pierce with a knife but not too soft, 40-45 minutes. Remove from oven and set aside to cool. Leave oven on.
Meanwhile, heat remaining 2 tablespoons oil in medium saute pan over medium-high heat. Add eggplant, zucchini, pepper, onion and garlic and saute until tender and lightly browned, about 6 minutes. Season with salt and pepper and set aside to cool.
Whisk the egg in a medium bowl then beat in heavy cream. Stir in cooled vegetables, cheese and herbs. Season with salt and pepper.
When squash is mostly cool, fill halves with vegetable custard. Bake for 45-60 minutes, until filling is almost set; a little jiggle is find. If squash flesh begins to look too dark as it bakes, cover lightly with a sheet of foil.
Let the squash cool for at least 5 minutes. You can serve it warm, at room temperature or cold (it reheats well in the microwave).
Serve with a lightly dressed salad for a complete meal.
— adapted from “Vegetables Unleashed” by Jose Andres
Pumpkin Shrub Spritz
PG tested
This bright, vinegar-based shrub contains canned pumpkin and pumpkin pie spice, which is readily available in most grocery stores. It is paired with Prosecco and a splash of bubbly water for a seasonal fall spritz.
For shrub
15 ounces pumpkin puree
1 cup brown sugar
¾ cup apple cider vinegar
2 cups water
1 tablespoon pumpkin spice
1 teaspoon salt
For spritz
3 or 4 ounces Prosecco
1½ ounces soda water
1 cinnamon stick, for garnish, optional
Prepare shrub: Place pumpkin puree, brown sugar, vinegar, water, pumpkin spice and salt into a medium saucepan and bring to medium heat.
Reduce heat and simmer for 5 minutes, then remove from heat. Let cool completely, then strain mixture through a fine mesh sieve lined with cheesecloth. Store in refrigerator.
To make cockail: Place 1½ ounces pumpkin spice shrub to a wine glass filled with ice. Add 3 to 4 ounces of Prosecco.
Top with about an ounce of soda water. Garnish with cinnamon stick.
Makes 1 cocktail.
— adapted from foodandwine.com
Warm Butternut Squash and Cheddar Dip
PG tested
This warm fall dip is totally unexpected but totally delicious. It features all the tastes of the season, plus cheese. Who doesn’t love cheese?
Extra-virgin olive oil, for drizzling and greasing
1 large butternut squash (about 3½ pounds)
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
4 tablespoons unsalted butter (½ stick), plus more if needed
20 sage leaves
1 large onion, thinly sliced
4 medium cloves garlic, minced
8-ounce package cream cheese, at room temperature
½ cup sour cream
8 ounces cheddar cheese, shredded
Crackers or pita chips, to dip
Preheat oven to 400 degrees. Line a baking sheet with foil. Grease a small baking dish with olive oil and set aside.
Peel, seed, and dice the squash into 1-inch cubes. Alternatively, use the microwave: Poke holes all over the squash with a fork or make shallow slits in the skin with a knife. Microwave squash for 3 minutes or until the skin and flesh have softened slightly. Peel squash and cut into cubes. Discard seeds.
Place squash cubes on the prepared sheet and drizzle with olive oil. Toss to coat. Season generously with salt and pepper. Roast squash until fork-tender and lightly browned, about 30 minutes.
Meanwhile, melt butter in a large pan over medium heat. Add sage leaves and fry in butter until lightly crisped and beginning to darken slightly. Remove pan from heat and remove sage leaves using a slotted spoon. Set aside.
Return pan to heat, add onion, and season with salt and pepper. Continue to cook over medium heat, stirring occasionally, until onion has caramelized, about 30 minutes. Add more butter if onion begins to stick to pan. Stir in garlic at the very end and cook until fragrant, about 1 minute.
Place roasted squash, caramelized onion mixture, and about two-thirds of the crispy sage leaves into the bowl of a food processor. Process until well combined. Add cream cheese and sour cream and process until smooth. Season with salt and pepper, if necessary.
Transfer squash mixture to prepared baking dish and mix in half of the cheddar cheese throughout. Top with remaining half of cheese. (At this point, the dip can be covered and refrigerated for up to 3 days before baking and serving.)
When ready to serve, bake dip at 400 degrees until cheese is entirely melted and browned in spots, about 20 minutes. Top with remaining crispy sage leaves and serve warm with pita chips or crackers for dipping.
Serves 10.
— seriouseats.com